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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.